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Raul, Bhanoli, Almora

Raul, Bhanoli, Almora

Almora, Uttarakhand

If you travel past Almora and keep following the bends that climb and fall like slow waves, you’ll come across a small name painted on a rock, Raul (रौल). Blink once, and you might miss it. But if you stop, take a step out, and let the mountain air settle around you, the village quietly begins to reveal itself.

It’s not loud, not fancy, just a few homes standing shoulder to shoulder, a patchwork of fields, and people who still greet strangers with a smile that feels real.

Mornings That Begin in Smoke and Song

Raul wakes softly. Before sunrise, a thin thread of smoke (धुआँ) curls out of stone chimneys, and you can hear the faint tap of someone washing utensils at the spring (धारा). A woman’s voice hums a pahadi tune, the kind that doesn’t have a beginning or end it just drifts through the air like memory.

By the time the sun hits the ridge, the world is already moving. Cows (गायें) are led to graze, men pick up their tools, and the aroma of chai and burning wood spreads through the crisp wind. Children run down narrow trails toward school, giggling, pulling each other’s shawls.  It’s ordinary, and yet, quietly beautiful.

The Land That Feeds and Grounds

Here, the soil is not rich, but it’s honest. Every inch is worked by hand, no machines, no rush. People grow गेहूं (wheat), मंडुवा (finger millet), and some pulses. If the rain is kind, the harvest smiles back. If not, they still thank the earth (धरती).

There’s pride in that kind of patience. Women often carry more weight than they speak of, balancing baskets on their heads, laughter on their lips. The men help each other during sowing and harvest, because in Raul, everyone’s field is everyone’s concern.

When you talk to them, you realise they don’t see farming as work. It’s rhythm, something their hands have learned from their fathers and mothers, the way a song learns its own tune.

Seasons Tell the Story

Raul changes with the seasons (मौसम). In गर्मी (summer), the hills glow with green, and the air smells faintly of pine resin. बरसात (monsoon) turns everything into mist, roads disappear, and voices echo. You sit indoors with tea and stories that grow with every retelling.

And सर्दी (winter), that’s when the sky feels closest. Smoke curls out of every house, woollen sweaters dry on wooden fences, and families gather near the chulha (चूल्हा), sipping tea, talking about nothing and everything.

Festivals like हरेला (Harela) and दीपावली (Diwali) add colour to the quiet. Diyas (दिये) line the windows, old songs are sung, and for a few evenings, the whole village glows like a single home.

Getting There (पहुँचना आसान नहीं, लेकिन मज़ेदार है)

The road to Raul isn’t smooth. It’s narrow, sometimes bumpy, but full of views that make you forget time. From Almora, you take the road toward Bhanoli, and after a few turns, the mountains open up valleys stretch far below, and pine forests whisper secrets in the wind.

You won’t find a board saying “Welcome to Raul.” What you’ll find instead is someone waving from a field, calling out,

“रुक जाओ भाई, चाय पी लो पहले!” (Stop, brother! Have tea first!)

That’s the kind of hospitality that doesn’t need planning; it’s instinctive.

What Raul Leaves Behind

Raul doesn’t try to impress you. It doesn’t pose for photos. It just is. And maybe that’s what makes it unforgettable.

When you leave, the road pulls you forward, but something inside you stays behind, maybe the sound of cowbells (घंटी की आवाज़), or the way sunlight moves across the terraced fields, or that soft “फिर आना” (come again) someone said as you waved goodbye. Raul (रौल) isn’t a destination. It’s a pause, the kind of stillness that feels alive.




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